The Arrival
24th of January, 2016
Bangkok, Thailand
The sun beats down on us as we lug our bodies down another side street. We peer at the signposts trying to figure out if the curly squiggles match what we have on the iPhone (which is now conveniently running out of battery). In desperation we decide to walk down the tiny street anyway.
It is now 11am and we have been madly searching for our hostel since 8am. I can feel sweat trickle down my back, my rucksack acting as fantastic insulation. “Where you going?” calls out a tuctuc driver, slowing down to an eventual stop beside us. We try to politely decline his help. So far we have been in Bangkok for a total of four hours. Our fresh white skin and disoriented expressions make us easy targets for anyone. I have still not worked out how 'on my guard' I have to be. We spent months researching before physically heading out here: the classic scams, the what-not-to do’s, but we are still as lost as ever. For example: If you ask for directions in Thailand people will always point you in some direction, even if they have no idea where you actually want to go. This is because in this culture people don’t want to lose face by saying "Sorry, I have no idea where that is”. Knowing this before arriving is great but there does come a point when you really have no clue where you are going. You are left with no choice but to ask. So we did. Starting with our taxi driver from the train station.
After deliberating over the address with his colleagues (which we have written in English and Thai) he ushers us over to his baby pink taxi. “Meter?” I say, waving at the small black meter at the front of the car. “Come on!” his voice is firm and irritated and the British side of me wants nothing more than to please this man by getting in the car but I also know that taxi drivers will scam fresh travellers. They will tell you that you the meter is broken to then demand five times the actual price once you reach your destination. He beckons us in again and we reluctantly get in the car aware of the queue of customers growing behind us. I wonder if he understood me? He starts to move and to my delight he presses a button. The red numbers flash onto the screen. Phew, we passed the first test. (Later we learn to walk away when we are told the meter is broken. The driver will usually call after you shouting “Okay! Okay! Meter.” realising you are on to them.) Our taxi shoots off. We relax into the seats as we speed en route to our hostel feeling proud of our first Thai interaction. Piece of cake.
This pride is promptly extinguished as we are swiftly dumped in what looks like a busy city centre. Cars rush by on a busy road. In the middle of it all buses slow but do not stop, allowing passengers to hop on and off. I am cautious crossing the road but if five months in Sicily has taught me anything, it is how to safely cross any road! Colourful tuctucs, all individually decorated, ferry spirited tourists whilst weaving their way amongst the traffic. All of this beneath red, gold and green tiled temples that glow beautifully in the early morning light. Shops line the road selling scarves and harem pants as far as the eye can see. We jump to avoid scooters squeezing past us on the pavement… but no hostels.
We decide to wander around and search a little down the street. D plucks up the courage to ask a few shop owners. They beam at us as we attempt to pronounce the name but we are sure we must be pronouncing it wrong as they just smile, shaking their heads. Most locals are so keen and happy to help but it becomes apparent that nobody actually knows where the hostel is. We desperately follow every person’s advice until 3 hours later we are still ambling around. We are much further from what seemed to be the city centre and we have not seen any western people in a while. I notice that the numerous large plant pots lining the streets are not only filled with plants but also water and, to me delight, “Look, little fish!’. Once I find one I see them everywhere. This part of the city is under construction, I spot a man about 3 stories in the air welding with no harness, no gloves and no safety glasses. Welcome to Thailand!
By this point we are losing hope. We are hungry, tired and starting to snap at each other. “I do not think it is this far, we are just walking round in circles”. I am whining, I hear it in my voice and I instantly regret opening my mouth. Our exhausted legs have walked us by shops selling shoes, chicken heads and feet, keys, wicker baskets, bamboo broom sticks, people eating their lunch on the pavement in plastic bags instead of plates. “Why don’t you take the lead then?” retorts D and I shut up. So far he is been the bravest at approaching random people. If I take the lead we’d give up and just walk into one of the million ‘Guest Houses’ we have passed along the way. Having prepaid our three nights online this is not an option for the budget traveller.
I spot a 7Eleven and my hearts soar. The website for the hostel claims to be near one (We later realise there are 7Elevens round every street corner). We step inside to ask for directions, once again overwhelmed with helpful smiles, gestures and those who really just want to practise their English. “Hello. Where you from? Scotland! Brazil! Oh, Brazil football! What you need? Look, here come my boss. He help you” says a staff member. A tall man in his late 20s appears and D shows him the address. The man pulls out his iPhone and starts to search for it in google maps. I peer over his shoulder but give up almost immediately as the names are all in Thai.
I cast my eyes around the shop, enjoying the refreshing air-con and the strange items the surround me. I can see snow white sponge cakes decorated with pink hearts, individual bananas in plastic packaging and rows of seaweed snacks. Some brands I recognise like ‘Lays’ (Walkers) crisps, only the flavours are things like ‘garlic and clam’ or ‘Korean sauce’. I make a mental note to try some later. D calls me over and I see that the Thai man is ushering us out of the shop. His English is really good and he explains that he’s not exactly sure where the hostel is (surprise, surprise) but that it is definitely in this area. This is the most positive information we have had all morning so we head off with our new found confidence in tow. It takes a few wrong turns, exasperated sighs, confused locals and 45 more minutes until we finally find ourselves standing in front of our destination: the ’Once again Hostel’.
Now although that reads as a rough morning (it was), finding accommodation in a foreign land is never easy so this was not a Thai exception. Having eaten almost nothing and having slept a total of 5 hours in 48 I am impressed we kept our cool as long as we did. 'Travelling' is always a great adventure but the actual moving from point A to point B is never fun, well for me anyway. I am sure it builds character though! If I have learnt anything over the years it is this: usually the hardest tasks end up teaching us the most.
For me, the main shock here in Thailand is not being able to understand anything. Moving around is not a novel experience for me. I am used to living in different places but so far I have always picked a country where I can understand and communicate (to an extent). Or at least a country with a Latin based language where I can make a pretty good guess at what is being said before later having a chance to learn myself. This has limited me to English, French, Spanish, Italian and Portuguese speaking destinations. Moving out of your comfort zone is almost like regressing back to infancy. You know nothing of the culture you are in, the food that is eaten there, the language spoken and for me (this time) even the alphabet used. People will talk slowly (or loudly) at you and when you try speaking to them you may as well be coo-ing like a baby most of the time. I can find this frustrating but most of the time I feel so wonderfully lost. It is like I’m on a different planet. Planet Thailand is fairing to be one of my favourites so far! Years dreaming, one year saving and six months planning… I am finally here!
